I rented one and it drove just great on the autobahn from Stuttgart to Baden-Baden. The next day, we had 5-7 cm of snow and I could barely control it. It would not stop well at all, I slid into a traffic circle at low speed and almost caused an accident. The forward traction was very poor- it would barley go up a small hill.
What is your experience?
My E39 5 series is the very worse car that I have owned in the snow. It will not get up a small hill and has trouble moving forward at any stop and go. I have seen many other owners have the same problem with this series. Only the M5 was offered with a limited slip read end in the E39 series. I’m not sure about your model.
The other days where the weather is good, I really enjoy the car.
pulled into the garage, stepped out of my car and into a puddle of antifreeze. no indicator lights and no other signs of any problems. obviously need to get it to the dealership, but don’t know how safe it is to drive with no antifreeze. tried pouring water in to see how long it would stay in and it leaks out immediately.
Fix it immediately. You no want to breaking your $45,000 beamer. Thanks you.
drill a tiny tiny hole in the lights. that will allow the condensation to leave and prevent it from coming back, or you could take out the whole headlight, remove the bulb and let it dry out and do that everytime you get cond. in it.
In price and features. Which do you prefer?
Or suggest another similar car. Although a Maserati is reaching…
S Klasse = BMW 7 Serie
SL Klasse = BMW 6 Serie
SLK Klasse = BMW Z Serie
E Klasse = BMW 5 Serie
C Klasse = BMW 3 Serie
CL Klasse = BMW 3 Serie coupe/cabrio
A Klasse = BMW 1 Serie
G Klasse = BMW X Serie
M Klasse = bmw X Serie
trust me, i know this stuff…
I am about to buy a 2006 5 series with 51,000 miles on it. What do I have to do to keep it running great? What should I ask before buying it as far as recent maintenance goes?
Before you buy, you should:
1. Run a CarFax report to get some background history.
2. Ask for the car’ maintenance records
3. Do a through test drive
4. If you’re mechanically inclined, check all of the fluids under the hood, if not TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC. If they owner won’t let you, then look elsewhere.
5. Check for recalls
6. Check for tire wear, rust, interior wear (if these are unusually high, odometer could have been rolled back).
7. See if Service 1 has been done. It should be done at 35 or 40K miles, I believe.
Watch the following videos for more detailed information on checking out the car and negotiating.
Also in context of maintenance costs, interior space for passengers which one is a better choice, considering I would be buying a pre-owned car??
Also in context of maintenance costs, interior space for passengers which one is a better choice, considering I would be buying a pre-owned car, not too old may be just a year old with a couple of thousand miles on it??
You should also consider that such a car may be expensive to insure. Check your insurance rates before buying one, for example here – carinsurance.yoll.net
will the suspension make a big difference in maintenance andtires if I drive a lot?
Yes your cost to maintain your vehicle will increase. This is due to the sport suspension, you will wear out tires much quicker. Also the tires on the sport package vehicle are often times more expensive. They are usually lower profile and wider in the rear. You can increase the life of the tires by maintaining tire pressure, and having a 4 wheel alignment about every 30 thousand miles max.
s the bmw 5 Series and 3 series any good?
I am very interesting in the 2004 BMW 5 Series sedan and 2006 3 series, how is the car? in terms or quality, reliability, performance, safety, features?
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how much am I gonna pay monthly for this ? and yearly with gas, and maintenance? without insurance or depreciation included?
Decent cars, but expensive maintenance.
Cost of ownership depends on your location, the condition of the car mechanically, the type of loan you get, etc.
I want a 5 series BMW stick shift preferably V6 and not V8. Which would be the best year of such a Beemer from the 1990s till date?
I mean in terms of reliability and least breakdowns..I know each car is different and one size does not fit all but just a general consensus
Its simple the newer the BMW model the more the costs and catastrophic money sucking breakdowns they have. The best of the bunch is the 89 and on E34 535i so your 1990 limit is meet. Still has the great 3.5 motor BUT its the weakest of the bunch in terms of durability and reliability. Good thing you want to go with a stick since the automatics are plagued with very early failure. Also you can get a used trans out of a 87 or 88 E28 535i and and some 3 series if you know what your doing. If I only had a 89 535i to drive I would right away re route the heater hoses to get coolant flow going thru the back of the cylinder head asap. BUT with all bmws from around that time up to today BMWs are plagued with numerous electrical problems with failing units and cracked solder joints. And many more mechanical problems.
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